Saturday, June 1, 2013

Thursday November 18, 2010 Perito Moreno, Argentina


 
 
 


 

OK – I’m now a believer in the Patagonia winds.  The roads continue to be straight and desolate to the point of being boring.  What isn’t boring is fighting the relentless winds coming from the west.  The one thing that probably kept Clint Eastwood from making his spaghetti westerns here is that most of the equipment would still be floating around somewhere in the sky, or possibly could have landed now somewhere in Africa. The interesting part of the winds is how they beat you constantly from the right, but as soon as you make a big turn to the left, with the wind to your back it becomes quiet.  Make a turn back to the right again, and the noise returns.  I finally had to start using the ear plugs that I bought for this trip.

 This place is just miles and miles of desolation with roads that end somewhere in the far reaches of the hills that you eventually reach without passing another vehicle for sometimes half an hour.  The south end of Ruta 40 is still under construction, so the ripio was our road of travel today, while you could see them working on the new pavement just to the left.  I wasn’t sure how I would handle the ripio for any length of time, but it has turned out to be a lot of fun.  The skills I had learned as a youth have returned, but a lot of fun turns into too much like work after about the first 80-100 km.  I decided that if I had wanted my back to take that much abuse, I would have continued to play polo.

The hotel is once again a very basic Argentine style with an attached restaurant that had an excellent dinner.  One thing that struck me as I prepared for bed is the emptiness that reverberates through the room.  The dark, tiled hallways echoed even the footsteps heard at night, and when coupled with the foreign language makes me think of a very “Mafioso” sort of place and brought back images of “The Godfather”.

Tomorrow is a rather short day on our way to an established “Estancia” for an Argentine barbeque.  Once I found out the BBQ was of lamb, and not beef, all I could think of was “why”.  I’m supposed to get the recipe for the rub in the BBQ for our local farrier, Jim Oliver, but I’m not sure it will translate to beef.  For that matter, I’m not sure I can get a translation from the owner of this place.  Guess I’ll find out later.  As they like to say at Compass Expeditions - it’s all about the journey.

 

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